Climbing Elbrus from north

Mount Elbrus north route

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Dates Accommodation Price  
( 2 Persons ) ( 4 Persons ) ( 8 Persons )
days

 

Climbing to Elbrus (5642 m) from the North, 13 days

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The route "From the North" passes Elbrus by the way of the first conquest of Elbrus (east top) in 1829 Kabardian Kilar Hashirov of expedition of 1829 of general Emanuyel. Northern Elbrus region is a seldom visited area which remained almost without changes since those times. Well-known curative sources of Dzhily-Su, the most beautiful falls and gorges, majestic beauty of glaciers. We are waited for spending the night on passes and after acclimatization smooth lifting on a northern slope of Elbrus on east top (5621м).

Person completely "disconnected" from stone and concrete reality through perception of the nature changes perception of and the situation in the world, estimates the strengths, the development. That’s why the climbing tracks which are carried out in environment, are deep and effective trainings on prevention of chronic fatigue and positive perception of reality. But it’s not the treatment and entertainment, it’s a possibility to reveal.

Elbrus –it’s not only one of the highest mountains of the world, its top - one of the coldest places of the Earth. Even on July the temperature there always below zero. The similar temperature during this period is observed only in Antarctica and in Greenland. The lowest pressure in Russia is fixed on Elbrus - about 380 mm of a mercury column, i.e. it’s less in 2 times than plain indicator.

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The climbing program to Elbrus from the North:

Day 1: Arrival to the airport of Mineralnye Vody,  meeting with our representative,  transfer to Kislovodsk. Spending the night in hotel ***
Day 2: Departure to the route of the beginning. Aul Hurzuk Camp near Karachayevsky Dzhily-Su. Hot curative springs
Day 3: We begin lifting to Balk-Basha's pass 3600м. Lifting lasts 4-5 hours. Spending the night on the pass
Day 4: Descent in a valley to a source of the river of Malk. Spending the night on a legendary plateau "German airfield"
Day 5: Lifting to the Northern shelter (Oleynikov's hut)
Day 6: Acclimatization exit to rocks Laziness (4700 m)
Day 7: Snow and ice occupations. Poludnyovka
Day 8: Climbing to the east top of Elbrus
Day 9: Reserve day ( if bad weather )
Day 10: Transition to narzan Northern Dzhily-Su. Stone mushrooms. Silver stream
Day 11: Moving to Essentuki. Spending the night in hotel ***
Day 12: Regenerative program, massage, Russian bath. Spending the night in hotel ***
Day 13: Transfer to the airport of Mineralnye Vody, departure.

In cost of round is included:

All transfers according to the program;
Hotel accommodation *** (5 nights);
Accommodation in a shelter of "Barrel" or the Diesel engine on the mountain (3-4 nights)
Food HB + a lunch package at accomodation in hotel
Payment of parking and collecting national. park "Northern Prielbrusye"
food FB at accommodation in "barrels" + a lunch package on exits
Rent of public equipment and kitchen
The admission in a border zone (mountain Tcheget top)
Registration in Prielbrusye for foreign citizens
The qualified guide
Services of the cook on the mountain
The additional guide for the climbing (1 on 3-4 people)
Permit for the climbing (stay in national park)
Ratrak for night of the climbing
Services of the masseur-manualista
Russian bath or narzanny baths
Excursion

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It’s not included into cost

Aviaflight to Min Waters Climbing insurance
Hire of personal climbing equipment
Any changes according to the program, conducting to additional expenses

Necessary documents

For foreign nationals - a copy of international passport.

Transport

"UAZ PATRIOT"

Service personnel

The guide and the auxiliary guide (for the climbing if the size of group exceeds 4 persons), the cook on a shelter will work with you.

Medicine

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On exits the first-aid kit is at the guide, practically from everywhere can contact rescuers of the Ministry of Emergency Situations. It is necessary for you to have specific individual drugs.

Weather

In Terskol in summer the temperature +15, +25 C, in spring and in autumn - from 0 to +15 C, in winter from -5 to -25 C. At height of 3800 m in summertime the temperature from -2 to +20С, during winter time - from -5 to -30 C.

Prospective additional expenditure

Communication, phone

IThe main guide has a handheld transceiver to support the communication with a rescue service of the Elbrus region.

Skill Level Overview

Introductory

I can ski red and black runs on piste without a problem. I am new to off piste skiing or maybe I have skied a little on the sides of the piste, or even attended a previous off piste specific course. I would like to ski powder snow with confidence and learn to link turns off piste. Learning to vary turn radius and control speed is an important goal. Gaining confidence in a variety of terrain would move my skiing to the next level.

Intermediate

I have at least a couple of weeks off piste skiing experience and/or received some previous instruction on an off piste specific course. I can link at least 8 – 10 turns together in reasonable control, speed and style, following the fall line in most snow conditions. I would like to improve my skiing in deep powder, heavy crusty snow uneven terrain and trees. I am happy to hike or ski tour for short distances to get to the best snow and terrain. I aspire to ski fluidly off piste and to ski steeper slopes. At this level all ski tourers must have some previous experience of using a touring set up, skinning and kick-turns.

Advanced (this trip)

I am confident skiing challenging terrain and steeper slopes. I can sideslip forward and backwards, side-step up and downhill and traverse steep slopes with no problems. I am happy to ski tour and hike for 1 – 2 hrs to reach the best snow and terrain. I aspire to ski the best snow available, push myself to ski steeper slopes and extend my ski touring experience. At this level all ski tourers must have some previous experience of using a touring set up, skinning and kick-turns.

Expert

I can ski fluidly and autonomously on all terrain. I often ski couloirs and gullies and seek out steep slopes to ski. I can jump turn in narrow couloirs and have experience of abseiling and side-slipping on steep terrain. I dream of skiing powder snow, I can ski fast, fluid “freeride” style turns, I can jump off small rocks, ski trees and challenging terrain with no fear or problems. I will often hike and ski tour to reach the best snow and terrain. I am familiar with using ice axe and crampons and some basic rope techniques. My aim is to push my skills and challenge myself further.

Stamina Level Overview

Level 1

I am fit enough to ski all day from the first lift, only taking short breaks every so often. When preparing for this trip aim for activities that increase your heart rate and build your aerobic levels e.g. running, cycling and swimming.

Level 2

I can ski all day with only short breaks and can hike up to 2 hours a day (600m of uphill). When preparing for this trip aim for activities that increase your heart rate and build your aerobic levels e.g. running, cycling and swimming.

Level 3

I can ski all day with only short breaks and can hike/skin for 3-4 hours most days (600-1000m vertical). Endurance fitness is valuable so aim for longer training periods of walking, running, cycling and swimming.

Level 4 (this trip)

I can ski all day and hike/skin for 4-5 hours every day (1100-1500m vertical). A prolonged period of cross training will help build endurance with 3 training sessions per week of at least 2 hours including sessions of walking, running, swimming and cycling.

Equipment
Elbrus Equipmentn Touring

Clothes for climbing

Outer clothing: You need to carry 3 layers of clothes. Depending on weather conditions you will put on or remove one of the type of clothes. As a rule, the outer clothing is a big not blown jacket with a hood and the same trousers. Usually its haven’t a heater. The role of the heater is carried out by inside layers of clothes, usually it is various options of a fleece

Down jacket or waistcoat: Not blown jacket with a hood: must have lightweight, provide a normal air circulation, to be such size that you would feel comfortably if it is dressed over other jacket. It is better that the jacket was made from a membrane fabric - Gore-Tex®, Sympatex and others.

Water-proof raincoat-cape: must be strong, lightweight, rather spacious to feel comfortably if it is dressed over a backpack.

Fleece trousers: from the materials Polartec 200, Bi Polar.   

Not blown trousers: must be rather spacious to dress its over fleece trousers, it is better with a "zipper" on each side that simplifies their clothing, without removing footwear, that is “dumpings”). It is better to have not blown trousers are made from a membrane fabric - Gore-Tex®, Sympatex or Windbloc.

Underwear: a T-shirt and trousers are made from thin Polartec 100 or Aerotex, thermolinen.            

Backpacks

You need to have 2 backpacks: the main - capacity not less than 80 liters, and assault on climbing - capacity of 30 liters.

Nylon packages: 5-8 pieces for packaging of things in a backpack.

Plastic bags: 10-20 pieces for packaging of things in a backpack, packings of products, garbage, etc.

Waterproof big package: for backpack concealment from a rain if it remains out of tent.

Bag: for the things which can be left in a left-luggage office at an exit to a route.

Sleeping accessories

Sleeping bag (comfort - 5C ( on summer), - 12С ( on winter): we recommend synthetic sleeping bags with heaters of Quallofill, Thinsulate, Hollow fiber, Poiarguard, etc.), because they quite reliable and easy. We don't recommend to take with ourselves down sleeping bags - they can bring you in rainy weather.

Karimat (rug): it is enclosed under a sleeping bag, serves as laying between a bottom of tent and your sleeping bag. As it is obligatory to have small karimat under "the fifth point"   

 

Caps and gloves

Protection against the sun: it is better the baseball cap with a fabric closing a neck and a dense peak which well supports a hood best of all approaches and protects from a counter snow crumb at a wind (see a photo below).

Woolen cap: balaklava Polartec® 100 or fleece.

The mask which is closing the face making from a thin fleece or H \B. The climbing on winter it is recommended the thermal masks which don't pass cold air at breath, don't condense moisture and don’t ice over outside.

Gloves and mittens: 1 pair for working on ice and 2 pairs (thin and warm) on climbing. On winter it’s obligatory to have verkhonka (a photo on the right) over fleece gloves.      

Personal accessories

Dining facilities: a spoon, a mug and a bowl (it is better with closed covers).

Thermos: capacity not less than 1 liter. It is obligatory to have it, because the climbing takes 12-14 hours.

Lip balm: softening cream in the form of lipstick or in tubes.  

Protection cream from the sun (protection factor not less than 30).

Sunglasses: should protect from ultra-violet radiation. Sunglasses should adjoin densely to the person or have lateral protective cheeks and a strong frame. On winter it is better to have a mountain-skiing mask. If you already wear glasses, we advise you to write out the sun-protection.

The written-out sunglasses and contact lens: if you already carry its, advise you to have the spare.

Forehead small lamp: the small lamp should be strong and lightweight on light-emitting diodes, have an additional set of batteries. It is obligatory to have the forehead lamp, because the exit to top at 2-3 o'clock in the morning.

Disposable lighter: 1-2 pieces which are used for ignition of torches.

Personal medical package: a set of drugs for your personal "sores". The general medical package is at the instructor.            

Shoes

Mountain boots: It is very important element of the equipment.

        

Boot covers: 1 pair. It’s put on over boots and protect from hitting inside of small stones, dirt, slush and snow. It is better with "zipper" or on "flypapers" to remove and dress without removing boots.

Ski sticks: it’s better to have with your the telescopic ski sticks. With its it is easier to go and keep balance on slopes and at flaws.

Sneakers: it is better to have with you usual sport sneakers for using its in a base camp.

Socks: 2 pairs woolen socks from rough wool or wool/polypropylene. One pair - for spending the night in a sleeping bag, the second – for the climbing. Other quantity of socks on your conscience.            

Personal equipment (it is provided by us and it’s included in round cost.)

Cats: universal under any footwear.

Rope: bright colors, well looks in photos.

System + carbines.

Ice axe.     

Unobligatory subjects

Marching knife: one small knife as Swiss Army.

Gas torch: we recommend the torches joining a cylinder through a hose.

Thermometer: look what temperature (air, not bodies) you ascended to Elbrus.

Field-glass, GPS, camera, video camera.

Tent: can take own tent.            

If you have other equipment which you want to take with you, you can contact with our instructors and guides to receive consultation on equipment.   

If you haven’t transferred firm equipment, it doesn't mean that it is necessary to refuse a climbing and nobody cancelled a second-hand :). I know a lot of well-equipped young guys who didn’t climb to Elbrus. The good equipment and strong muscles – it’s not the main thing for climbing. Will power and persistence make the miracles. Good Luck!!!!